The correct way to balance a wheel is, of course, on a dedicated wheel-balance stand. But you can even do a rough job on your bike—the principles remain the same. For the front wheel, you’;ll want to loosen the axle pinch bolts and axle to reduce binding, but leave the axle in place. Remove the brake caliper or push the pads back in the caliper body. For the rear, remove the chain and take off the caliper or push the pads out of contact with the disc. Slowly spin the wheel and note where it comes to rest. With a piece of tape, chalk, marker, or crayon, mark the 12 o’clock position on the wheel (the light spot). Turn the wheel 90 degrees to both the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions and see if the light spot returns to the 12 o’clock position on its own. If so, tape a wheel weight onto the rim at the light spot. Repeat the above step until you’ve added or removed enough weight that the wheel remains motionless when the light spot is turned to both the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions. Spoked wheels use crimp-on fishing-sinker-type weights, while cast wheels use adhesive-backed lead weights. An old-school substitute for spoked wheels is a string of lead solder wrapped around the spoke and crimped on with a pair of pliers. Reinstall the chain, pump the brakes, tighten the axles, and you’re done.